Post by Tory Schutte on Oct 26, 2011 20:23:05 GMT -5
Derby Icons General rules: Old Iron, 80 and newer, Compacts and Future Icons. All rules in bold are new or stressed for 2012.
- NO BLACK CARS, at any show in any class, exception first team registered and last year’s Champ. No dark colors without contrasting lettering scheme. All cars must be painted, this is a premier event and we expect your cars to look sharp.
- Small Car wheelbase is 108" maximum no full frame cars, 6 cylinder maximum.
- All vehicles must have a roof sign, Minimum 15" x 15", Maximum 24" x 24", contrasting colors. --These may not be positioned in such a waay as to strengthen the car. Official’s decision is final.
- No Imperials, any year, Imperial sub frames, Ambulances, Hearses or limousines allowed.
- No re-stubbing of frames.
- All bodies must be mounted on stock OEM frames for that year and make of car.
- NO PAINTING, BUFFING, OILING OR UNDERCOATING OF FRAMES. THESE CARS WILL NOT BE INSPECTED OR ALLOWED TO COMPETE.
- Driver must wear helmet, seat belt and eye protection at all times.
- All vehicles must have a fire extinguisher mounted within the drivers reach, inside the car.
- All Drivers must pick up trophies, earnings and all goodie bag items at the completion of the event, or forfeit them. They will not be available after that date.
- These are not suggestions. This is NOT a menu. This is what is allowed as far as preparation of the car. Please do not try to read anything more into these rules. “THIS IS WHAT YOU ARE ALLOWED TO DO TO PREPARE YOUR CAR.”
COMPETITION RULES:
- Drivers must remain in the vehicle with helmet, seatbelt and eye protection on until notified by an official that it is safe to exit the vehicle.
- Driver’s door hits are illegal. If the hit is deemed by the official to be careless or intentional, you will be disqualified. If you use your driver’s door as a defense, we will not enforce the rules. If you use the door defense repeatedly you will be disqualified.
- No hot rodding in the pits. Keep it at an idle.
- Any open door will be cause disqualification, you are allowed one fire, second fire will be cause for disqualification. You may return in later rounds.
- Sandbagging is not tolerated and will be strictly enforced. Locking up the brakes prior to a hit for anything other than a driver’s door will be a cause for disqualification. The fans pay to see a show, put one on for them!
- You must make AGGRESSIVE HIT every 60 seconds. You will not be given any warnings; you will just be timed out.
- You will be given ample time for restarts. We do not use the clock exclusively. We try to work with you if you are hung up. Hitters get more time than sandbaggers.
- Metal Mayhem is not a team event; team driving will not be tolerated.
- THERE IS NO ALCOHOL IN THE PITS. This includes pit crews. If you or ANY of your crew is caught with alcohol, you will be disqualified.
- All cars are subject to a post race inspection before any prize money is awarded.
- You must be a driver to protest, the fee is $100 and you must have cash in hand. This protest must take place immediately at the conclusion of the feature event. The protesting driver must have competed in the same class as the driver he is protesting.
- Any questions, CALL FIRST. Don’t assume anything. The Officials decision is final.
CAR BUILDING GUIDELINES FOR METAL MAYHEM:
Car Building Questions? Call David Gard 219-746-8643
GENERAL PREPARATION:
- All glass, plastic and pot metal must be removed. Nothing may remain in the bottoms of the trunk or doors.
- All outer hardware must be removed - door handles, mirrors, chrome, moldings, screws, fiberglass, etc. No added weight to any car.
- Rear seats in all cars and all decking in station wagons must be removed.
- Front seats must be securely bolted to the floor, however, these bolts may NOT go thru the frame! You must have a functioning seat belt.
- All flammable materials must be removed from the car other than safety padding and the driver’s seat.
- No sedagon or wedge cars are allowed.
CAGES & DOOR BARS:
- You may use channel or tubing up to 6" for the door bars. Total length is not to exceed 60". This bar may not be more than 18" behind the center post on 4 door cars and 10" behind the door seam on 2 door cars - no exceptions.
- Dash bar and seat bars may not exceed 5" diameter. Seat bar must be no further than 6" behind the seat. All bars must be straight pieces no contoured pieces.
- Sedans only, are allowed a gas tank protector, 24” X 6” inches, centered in the back seat area. There must be a 1” space between the back bar and all sheet metal, may not be attached to anything other than back seat bar. All interior sheet metal must remain in stock position. Do not pound!
- You may add a diagonal bar behind the drivers seat and directly below the seat bar running from the seat bar to the floor sheet metal.
- You may add 4 VERTICAL down bars, welded to your door bar and to the floor sheet metal. These bars may not attach to or conceal a body mount.
- No kickers, angled or otherwise. NO cage components may be welded to the frame.
- All horizontal cage components must be at least 8" off the floor of the car, including gas tank protector, measured at the body bolt elevation.
- All cage components must be in the interior of the car, not inside the door structure with the exception of the driver’s side. This door bar MAY be inside the door structure to allow more room for driver’s safety.
HALO OR ROLLOVER BARS:
- You may add a halo bar to the cage components listed above. It may nor exceed 5" in diameter.
- On a 4-door post car, this bar must attach to the seat bar, no exceptions.
- On a 2-door or 4-door non-post car, this bar may be attached to the floor sheet metal.
- Halo bars must be in a direct vertical line with the seat bar.
- Halo bars may NOT be angled toward the rear of the car. They must be vertical.
-You may bolt the halo bar to the roof sheet metal in 2 places.
SKID PLATES:
- Skid plates are allowed. They must be separate plated for the engine and the transmission.
- NO full-length skid plates.
- NO bolting or welding the skid plated to the frame.
TRUNK LIDS:
- Trunk lids must remain 50% in the stock location. The trunk lid must remain on hinges.
- You may fasten your trunk lid in ALL OF THE FOLLOWING 3 ways:
- You may weld 5 on and 5 off 2" x 1/8" strap max.
- AND -You may weld 4 pcs. of 5/8" all thread vertically to the rear frame rails and run them thru the trunk lid. No double nutting. You may use a 5" washer on the trunk lid bolts, plates may not be welded and must be free-floating.
- AND -You may place up to 8 - 3/8" bolts in the drip rail area of the trunk lid.
- There must be 12" minimum hole in the trunk lid for inspection purposes.
- Trunk lid seams must be clearly visible and accessible, do not pound over.
- Relocation of the speaker deck is not allowed it must remain in the stock location, no relocation of any sheet metal or components. Your trunk lid may be V’ed in the center but must be at least 12 inches off trunk body mount location; speaker deck can be 10 inches.
- No fully wedged cars, rear quarters and tail light valance must remain vertical.
HOODS:
- Hoods may be bolted, wired or chained shut ONLY.
- You may use 6 bolts top hold the hood, front two may be 1" max, other 5/8” or less.
- The 2 front bolts may go thru the frame, NOT welded to the frame. The other 4 must be sheet metal to sheet metal.
- If you use chain or wire, you may weld up to 5" washers to the hood. If bolting, the 5" washers must be free floating.
-You may install up to 12 - 3/8" bolts or self tapping screws per hood cutout. Maximum of 3 cut outs. Maximum washer size is 1" diameter. Cutouts may be for header clearance, air breather clearance or radiator fill opening only. These bolts may NOT be installed in any area other than the immediate perimeter of the cut out.
- NO welding of cut outs is allowed.
- You must have a minimum 10" hole in the hood for fire protection.
- Hoods must be open at inspection time. Hood springs must be removed.
DOORS:
- Doors may be welded 5” on, 5” off, outside only, 2" x 1/8" strap maximum.
-You may smash the inner and outer skin together and weld them solid, NO added metal. This includes wagon tailgates
- If you do not weld your doors you must chain or #9 wire them closed in at least 2 spots. You may NOT bolt your doors shut.
- Drivers door may have window netting for driver’s safety. NO other windows may have netting.
- You may weld a plate Maximum 6" x 1/4" across the front doors for protection, not to exceed 6" beyond the front door seams. NO GRADER BLADES. These plates must be in the center of the door, run horizontally.
- Wagon tail gates may be welded, 5 on 5 off, not solid, **OR** you may bolt the tailgate as in previous years. 4 bolts, 4 nuts, 3/4” max **OR** you may weld 5” pieces of angle to the tailgate and quarters and use 3/4 “ max bolts.- pick 1 not all 3.
WINDOWS:
- You must have a piece of rebar/all thread/chain(3/8 max),#9 wire or 2”X1/4” straps running from the roof to the cowl in the windshield area for drivers protection, up to 2 pieces max. This may not be designed as reinforcement to the car and must be space at least 18 inches apart on the bottom, and no cross connections. No other added metal or mount plates, either weld directly or bolt to sheet metal only. No component may be mounted, welded or bolted within 6 inches of the DP.
- You may use 2 loops, 4 strands of #9 wire total in each window opening. This wire may go to or around the frame.
- Station Wagons may not use wire in any window opening beyond the rear passenger door window opening.
- The wire must remain in the field of that window. They may not crisscross the interior of the car.
OTHER:
- Body creasing, enhancing of existing body lines and addition of body lines is allowed to the sides of the car only. Do not fold the metal over to create a doubled effect; any spot with 4 layers of sheet metal will be torched out completely. Trunk lid seams must be clearly visible and accessible.
- No doubling of body panels allowed, no added metal allowed
- Quarter panels must remain vertical. Tail light valances must remain vertical.
- NO SEAM WELDING other than the exterior driver’s doors.
- Core support seam welding is NOT allowed.
- Washers for #9 Wire may be welded to the roof sheet metal. They may be a maximum of 1 ½" diameter. No washers may be welded for future wire installation.
- Holes may be cut in the floor & firewall to accommodate the shifter, fuel lines, and transmission lines.
- You may cut a hole in the firewall to accommodate the engine, within reason.
- You may have up to 5 - 3/8" bolts in each wheel opening. They may not be higher than 5" above the stock lip location of the wheel opening.
ENGINES:
- Any engine may be used in any car, but it must be mounted within 5" of the original motor.
- You may chain the motor, but you must use an existing bolt. Chains may not be higher than the top of the stock engine mount cup. Chains may not be attached to the cylinder heads, header flanges of engine plates. 1 Chain per side, 3/8 max
- You may weld in additional supports to the engine cradle area, but they may not be attached to the frame rails at any point. Only allowed for holding engine in place.
- No engine oil coolers are allowed.
- You must have an air cleaner over the carburetor at all times.
- No starting fluid is allowed.
- Mopars are allowed to secure K member in the following ways:
Remove pucks and bolt tight to frame, stock size bolts only.
Leave pucks in between and weld 4 - 3 inch welds, total (not per side) of 12 inches only.
DISTRIBUTOR PROTECTORS/CRADLES:
- If you run a DP do not mount your dash bar closer than 5 inches to the rear most point of the firewall/cowl, YOU WILL NOT RUN.
-Distributor protectors allowed, must be attached to engine or transmission only, back side must be no wider than 12 inches, must not contact cage before, during or after the event. It may not be welded, bolted or connected to body, hood or frame. Forward supports must be inside normally positioned headers and not extend past the water pump. Call ahead!
- Aftermarket Distributor protectors, cradles and pulley protectors are allowed. These must be separate items and may not all be connected for a complete engine protector system. If you use a front plate it may not be gusseted to header flanges or other components in any manner. No “extreme” engine systems.
-You may beat flat the engine side of the firewall only, do not weld or bolt firewall. Do not re-enforce the firewall/cowl. Do not beat, paint, bolt, weld on, weld to or modify the driver’s side of the firewall/cowl in any way.
TRANSMISSIONS:
- Transmissions must be of passenger car origin, transmission coolers may be used, but they must be secured in such a way to prevent injury.
- Metal or braided lines must be used. No fuel or low-pressure lines may be used.
- Coolers must be secured in a container in the passenger compartment of the car.
REAR ENDS:
You may run 8 lug or floater rear ends. No part of rear end may strengthen the car’s frame or body in any way.
- You may use any type of rear end (Ford / Mopar / GM / Hybrid).
- You may tilt the rear end by lengthening or shortening the trailing arms. Trailing arms must be of passenger car origin and must operate. Trailing arms may be reinforced but must be OEM origin.
- Rear end braces are allowed, but they may serve no purpose other than to strengthen the rear end housing. They may not extend from the rear end further than 6” and may not be higher than the top of the axle tube.
BODY BOLTS:
- All body bolts may be replaced with up to 5/8" bolts, maximum 8" length.
- Core support bolts may be 1" diameter. Core support bolts may go thru the hood and count as 2 of your 6 hood bolts.
- You may use pipe up to 1 ½" OD to run the core support all thread thru. These pipes may be welded to the core support using 3/16" strapping, 2 -4" pcs. max per pipe.
- Washers must be free floating inside the car and inside the frame on the bottom side.
- Do NOT weld the body washers to the floor. Maximum washer size is 5" x 3/16".
- Space must be maintained between the body and the frame; Minimum 3/4".
- Do not bolt the body directly to the frame.
- You may add 2 body mounts in the position of your choice. They must be painted for easy viewing.
- If your station wagon came with the body bolts in the humps, these are your 2 additional mounts. You will NOT be allowed to add more mounts.
- If you decide to bolt your coil springs in place thru the frame and the rear package tray, these will count as your added mounts.
- Wagons are permitted to run 2 of the rear 4 mounts thru the rear pillars. NOT THE ROOF. They must be in the pillar at the tailgate area.
- Chrysler products may run 1" all thread behind the radiator support, but must drill a hole in the frame to bolt the all thread. Do not weld these to the frame.
RADIATORS, RADIATOR SUPPORTS:
- Radiator must be in the stock position in front of the motor.
- Radiator supports must remain in the stock location.
- OEM style radiators only, no home made tube construction radiators.
- You may not add cooling capacity. No supplemental cooling devices allowed.
FUEL DELIVERY SYSTEMS:
- No plastic gas tanks allowed. Marine tank or metal fuel tank only.
- 10+ gallon tank recommended. No coffins, be reasonable!
- Original gas tanks must be removed from the car.
- You must have the gas tank securely mounted behind the driver’s seat and it must be covered.
- Fuel lines must run inside the car, not under the car along the frame.
- Fuel lines must be secured to the floor and kept from pinch points
- Automotive pump gas only, NO ALCOHOL.
- Electric fuel pumps are allowed. They must be covered and have an on/off switch near the steering wheel and clearly marked in large letters.
- All lines must be double clamped.
TIRES & BRAKES:
- No tires taller than 30". 4 wheels max per car. No duals.
- No split rims, studded tires or 100% solid wheels, you may use aftermarket center with various bolt patterns, 8 inch max, 14 inch for mobile home tires. Welds must be approved by judges on rear tires.
- Valve stem protectors allowed, wheel weights must be removed.
- Doubled or foam filled tires OK - we don’t like flats!
- All cars must be able to demonstrate the ability to stop at any time. If your brakes do not work, you will not compete.
- You may not change tires after inspection, ride height will be measured with your competition tires only.
BATTERIES:
- A maximum of 2 - 12 volt batteries may be used.
- They must be secured inside the car in front of the passenger seat and covered.
- Rusted out holes in your floor sheet metal may be patched where components will be mounted or for drivers safety, sheet metal only. No other sheet metal patching is allowed unless it is a safety issue. You may not patch clean and solid floors.
- When patching you may NOT weld, you may bolt, self tap or pop rivet all patches. No components to include, gas pedal, battery boxes, etc may be welded, you must bolt only. No part or patch may be attached to any vertical sheet metal(firewall), all must be patched or mounted in the horizontal floorboards only. No over sized mount plates or boxes. Do not mount anything within 6 inches of any body bolt.
FRAMES:
- The only frame welding allowed is from the front of the a-arms forward, top only, no more than a ½" wide bead.
- Buick, Olds and Pontiacs may fill the large hole in the frame behind the radiator support. This must be a butt fit, 1 pass weld only. NO overlap allowed.
- The bumper strap to frame welding is covered in the bumper section.
- NO other frame welding is allowed. No plating, stuffing, heat treating or foam filling of frames is allowed. Do NOT paint or undercoat your frame or you will not even be inspected and loaded.
- You may weld your motor mounts to the engine cradle, not to the frame rails.
- Rear frame rails may not be shortened. No dowel pinning of the frame is allowed.
- You may notch the frame for minimal pre-bending, but do NOT weld the cut.
- You may run a chain or cable or #9 wire from rear rail to rear rail behind the rear humps. 3/8" chain maximum.
- You may chain or wire your axle to the frame hump. You may NOT use strapping of any kind for this. Wire or chain only. 3/8" chain maximum. Chain must go around frame on full frame cars, do not bolt through hump creating a frame pin, except uni-body cars may use 1 bolt per side thru the frame for this.
- You may not weld the chain links to create a bar effect.
- There is no frame shaping allowed at all. Do not sharpen the corners of the frame or square them in any way. The frame humps above the rear tires may be beat in for a distance of 8” in each direction from the center of the hump. That is the ONLY frame shaping that is allowed.
BUMPERS, BUMPER BRACKETS:
-You must start with a stock/replacement bumper but you are allowed to re-enforce inside or the backside between the shock mounts. Do not re-enforce the front or the ends outside the shock mounting area. Bumper re-enforcement may not be done in anyway to stop frame bending. Bumper must appear stock from the stands, no spike or protruding items.
- Bumpers are interchangeable for all cars. Includes compact and mid-sized cars.
- You may weld the bumper seams, the shocks and weld the brackets to the frame. You may not weld further than 4 inches behind the radiator support AT ALL when mounting your front bumper brackets on any car. No bracket or welding may be done further than 4 inches behind the radiator support other than the top frame seam. – NO EXCEPTIONS
- If you choose not to use brackets, you may weld your bumper directly to the frame.
- You may weld the outer chrome skin to the bumper inner frame.
- You may not weld the bumper to the body at any time.
- Bumpers may be cut to keep them out of the tires.
- Bumpers may be flipped (upside down).
- Compression bumper shocks may be drained, slid back into the shock and welded fully.
- All bumper brackets and shock components must be OEM automotive materials.
- REAR bumper brackets may not be welded more than 4” onto the frame rail
- You may run 4 loops of #9 wire from the radiator support to the bumper in 2 locations outside of the radiator.
- You may weld a 2" x 6" x 1/4" strap from the bumper to the frame to help keep the bumper on the car. This must remain in one piece. It cannot be angled to the corner of the bumper to form a kicker. 6" is the maximum length.
- You may run 2 pieces of all thread 5/8" x no more than 14" thru the body pan to help hold the bumper on. 5" washer maximum for this bolt.
- Bumper height must be 16" to 22" measured to the bottom of the frame at the back and front body mount location.
THE FOLLOWING SECTION IS FOR THE 80’S CLASS ONLY
- You may replace the aluminum engine cradles with a stock older Ford cradle. It must be in the stock location with only 12 inches weld max, all other components must be bolted in with stock size bolts. No added metal, braces or gussets.
- You may pitch, tilt or tip 80’s and newer style cars in 3 following ways only
1. You may cold pitch, no added metal.
2. You may cut only the outside flap and pull the front end down moving the flap ½ inch and re-weld. Only re-weld the one flap, do not re-weld any other crushbox seams, no added metal.
3. You may pitch at the transmission cross member, since you are already allowed to weld a 5 inch piece of angle there to mount your cross member.
- Watts-link conversion for Fords. You may convert a Watts-Link to a standard 4 link system in the following way: Use the upper and lower trailing arm brackets off an older Ford. After market brackets are allowed, but no thicker than ¼ inch and may be attached with max of 3 – 1/2“ bolts each side. No shortening of trailer arms, no positioning of brackets to strengthen the front down legs of the rear hump, must be mount in the stock location.
- You may cut the excess frame off the front rails but you may not move the front body mount. All body mounts must remain in stock location.
THE PRECEEDING SECTION WAS FOR THE 80’S CLASS ONLY
SUSPENSION, SPRINGS:
- No coil to leaf conversions.
- Leaf springs must be in the factory position.
- You may change coil springs.
- Suspension must be original factory suspension for that car.
- You may not remove the shocks and put pipe or all thread in their place.
- You may weld, bolt or chain down your A arms. You are allowed either two 1” straps, **OR** one chain **OR** one bolt per side. All chains, bolts or welds must be in the middle of the A-arm. Do not weld entire A arm down, 1” max, nothing may contact the frame rail, all attachments must be made to spring bucket only. If you are in excess of this rule, you will not run!
- If you chain your humps, you must leave enough slack for the suspension to work.
- You may reinforce your tie rods, but you must use the OEM tie rod ends.
- Pipe Tie Rods are allowed but you must use the stock ends, no aftermarket hiems.
- Steering wheel to Steering gearbox may be modified.
- After market steering columns allowed.
- Shock absorbers must be factory replacement for that year, make and model of car.
- No truck shocks, no exotic shocks, no mystery shocks, no over sized shocks.
- All shocks must have a minimum 3/4" hole in the dust cover for inspection purposes.
- Cars that place in the money will have the shock cylinder cut open and if a non-stock shock is discovered, that car will be disqualified and all money won will be forfeited.
- Air shock lines must be cut.
LEAF SPRINGS:
- 9 leaf maximum, 5/16 " max thickness, 2 ½" wide maximum.
- 58" minimum, 60" maximum spring length.
- Stagger - 3" long side (rear of axle), 2&quoot; short side (front of axle).
- 5 clamps per spring, 2 in front of the axle, 3 behind the axle.
- Clamp material 1/4" thick, 2" wide, 2 – 3/8" bolts per clamp.
- U-bolts - 7/16" maximum, stock mounting plattes must be used. The older Fords are allowed ½” u-bolts as they were stock for those years.
- No homemade mounting plates or oversized u-bolts will be allowed.
- No welding on the spring pack
- No flat sprung cars - leaf pack must have a minimum of 2" of arch.
- No duct taping of springs prior to inspection.
MM INSPECTION PROCEDURES:
- Official’s decisions are final.
- You will be given one (1) opportunity to correct items on your car.
- Each car gets a maximum of 2 times thru inspection.
- Cars will be impounded after inspection and staged in a secure location.
- You must be completely ready to bolt the hood down during inspection and then put the car in the staging area.
- No further work will be allowed and cars will not be allowed to return to their trailers.
- Do not come to the inspection line if you are not done preparing your car.
- Any added or welded metal plate/rod or material not specifically covered in the rules, will be removed completely as well as the surrounding metal. Don’t do it or your car will be weakened! Call ahead! Call David Gard 219-746-8643
MM2011 PRE-FEATURE/PRE-CONSOLATION CAR PREPARATION:
- You may add 4 strands of wire in 4 locations of your choice prior to the consi, unlimited wire for feature.
- Leaf spring cars may NOT replace leaf springs prior to either the consi or the feature.
- You may wire them or tape leaf springs, but may not replace them.
- No replacing of sheet metal components prior to the consi or the feature.
- After the heats, consi cars will be re inspected. Feature cars will be impounded.
- You may sedagon your vehicle only after you have qualified for the feature, wire only, visibility for inspection must be maintained.
- Upon impound, digital photographs will be taken of each feature car.
Feature car repairs will begin at sunrise. Feature cars must be re inspected by 1pm and then impounded again. No further repairs will be allowed after this point.
LEAF CLASS:
-Leaf class will use the above rules AND:
- 80's and newer cars only
- If you do not convert to leafs, you aree allowed a 1/4 inch by 22 inch hump plate, contoured to the hump, centered and welded with one pass of 1/4 weld. This plate must be welded to the outside only, match the factory hump and not span the center of the hump. Do not weld any seams on the rear of the car.
-Any rear end - 8 lugs ok
-5/16" thick, 2.5" wide leaf siize
-2" stagger front and back. 9 leaf mmaximum
-5 clamps per side 2x4x1/4" max. 5/1116" bolts max.
-48" minimum spring length, eyelet tto eyelet.
- NO DOUBLED MAINS, no leafs above the maains
- If your leafs aare different, contact Daave with specs.
-rear mount - 6X66X1/4" shackle, weldded to or bolted thru the frame
-Front eyelet mount
1. In trailing arm bracket, w/3x3x1/4" gusset
2. In the frame with a bolt thru - no added metal
3. Box welded to the frame 4X6X1/4" maximum
-Springs MUST have a minimum 2" archh.
-Springs may be mounted above or below thhe axle
-No allthread sttruts, must have shock abssorbers.
-NO ADDED METAL OTHER THAN WHAT IS SPECIFFFIED ABOVE. NO EXCEPTIONS.
Leaf class cars are allowed to compete at all of our Fair shows in the open class.
TRUCKS:
-We will honor the rules in the area that you run.
The following exceptions apply….
-NO fully plated frames, regardless of yoour rules
-NO doubled sheet metal
-NO cages in the fenders, engine compartmment or rear bedsides.
-No fully operable 4 wheel drive setups -NNo kickers past the centerline of eitherr axle.
We realize that this might provide a fairly diverse field, but we do not generate enough truck interest to justify asking you to build your truck to our specific rules.
Bone Stock Rules
A. 1. Any year car… No Imperials, no Suicide Lincolns, no hearses
B. Body
1. Remove all glass mirrors and plastic. Remove all decking in wagons
Vehicles must be swept clean of all debris
2. No sedagons, no crease enhancement, no sheet metal shaping, forming or
Folding.. Body to remain completely stock.
3. Deck and Hood must be 100% in stock location and open for inspection.
4. Anything can be removed, NOTHING can be added
5. NO WELDING… NO WELDING
6.. Fasten door, hoods, tail gates in 4 places, 4 strands of #9 wire per seam
7. Body mounts and spacers to remain stock and in place. If they are broken, #9 wire may be substituted. No body bolt changing allowed.
C. Frames
1. NO welding on frames allowed..
2. No suspension modifications allowed. Must remain strictly stock
D. Drive Train
1. No performance parts or engines allowed, stock only. Engines subject to a $500 claimer, so if you wouldn’t sell your engine before the derby for $500, don’t bring it. The only acceptable upgrades are timing chain, headers, basic tune up, etc... not complete rebuilds.
2. Only the lower stock engine mounts may be welded or chained.
3. Stock rear ends only – OEM for that car. Rear end gears may be welded
4. Floor shifters allowed, headers allowed
5. NO engine cradles, slipshafts, protectors of any kind, no aftermarket parts of this nature at all.
6. You may swap engines, ie.. Chevy in a Ford, but must be a stock engine.
E. Driver Compartment
1. 2 bar cage only, dash area, drivers door OR seat bar. No other cage components allowed, no down pipes.
2. Drivers door must be padded.
3. Gas tank and battery must be moved and secured. Tank behind the seat, Battery on the passenger front floor.
4. No oil or trans coolers allowed. O.E. radiator cooling only.
F. Bumpers
1. You may weld on a steel bumper, no welding further than 4 inches from the back of bumper, single pass only.
2. Shocks may be collapsed and welded, single pass only
3. Or you may chain, one piece of chain per side BOLTED from the mount to mount to hold on the bumper.
G. NO tire restriction, Brakes MUST work.
Only welding allowed is bumper, engine mount, cage and rearend! This build should only take 2 days, if you spend more than that you are overbuilt for this class and will not run!
- NO BLACK CARS, at any show in any class, exception first team registered and last year’s Champ. No dark colors without contrasting lettering scheme. All cars must be painted, this is a premier event and we expect your cars to look sharp.
- Small Car wheelbase is 108" maximum no full frame cars, 6 cylinder maximum.
- All vehicles must have a roof sign, Minimum 15" x 15", Maximum 24" x 24", contrasting colors. --These may not be positioned in such a waay as to strengthen the car. Official’s decision is final.
- No Imperials, any year, Imperial sub frames, Ambulances, Hearses or limousines allowed.
- No re-stubbing of frames.
- All bodies must be mounted on stock OEM frames for that year and make of car.
- NO PAINTING, BUFFING, OILING OR UNDERCOATING OF FRAMES. THESE CARS WILL NOT BE INSPECTED OR ALLOWED TO COMPETE.
- Driver must wear helmet, seat belt and eye protection at all times.
- All vehicles must have a fire extinguisher mounted within the drivers reach, inside the car.
- All Drivers must pick up trophies, earnings and all goodie bag items at the completion of the event, or forfeit them. They will not be available after that date.
- These are not suggestions. This is NOT a menu. This is what is allowed as far as preparation of the car. Please do not try to read anything more into these rules. “THIS IS WHAT YOU ARE ALLOWED TO DO TO PREPARE YOUR CAR.”
COMPETITION RULES:
- Drivers must remain in the vehicle with helmet, seatbelt and eye protection on until notified by an official that it is safe to exit the vehicle.
- Driver’s door hits are illegal. If the hit is deemed by the official to be careless or intentional, you will be disqualified. If you use your driver’s door as a defense, we will not enforce the rules. If you use the door defense repeatedly you will be disqualified.
- No hot rodding in the pits. Keep it at an idle.
- Any open door will be cause disqualification, you are allowed one fire, second fire will be cause for disqualification. You may return in later rounds.
- Sandbagging is not tolerated and will be strictly enforced. Locking up the brakes prior to a hit for anything other than a driver’s door will be a cause for disqualification. The fans pay to see a show, put one on for them!
- You must make AGGRESSIVE HIT every 60 seconds. You will not be given any warnings; you will just be timed out.
- You will be given ample time for restarts. We do not use the clock exclusively. We try to work with you if you are hung up. Hitters get more time than sandbaggers.
- Metal Mayhem is not a team event; team driving will not be tolerated.
- THERE IS NO ALCOHOL IN THE PITS. This includes pit crews. If you or ANY of your crew is caught with alcohol, you will be disqualified.
- All cars are subject to a post race inspection before any prize money is awarded.
- You must be a driver to protest, the fee is $100 and you must have cash in hand. This protest must take place immediately at the conclusion of the feature event. The protesting driver must have competed in the same class as the driver he is protesting.
- Any questions, CALL FIRST. Don’t assume anything. The Officials decision is final.
CAR BUILDING GUIDELINES FOR METAL MAYHEM:
Car Building Questions? Call David Gard 219-746-8643
GENERAL PREPARATION:
- All glass, plastic and pot metal must be removed. Nothing may remain in the bottoms of the trunk or doors.
- All outer hardware must be removed - door handles, mirrors, chrome, moldings, screws, fiberglass, etc. No added weight to any car.
- Rear seats in all cars and all decking in station wagons must be removed.
- Front seats must be securely bolted to the floor, however, these bolts may NOT go thru the frame! You must have a functioning seat belt.
- All flammable materials must be removed from the car other than safety padding and the driver’s seat.
- No sedagon or wedge cars are allowed.
CAGES & DOOR BARS:
- You may use channel or tubing up to 6" for the door bars. Total length is not to exceed 60". This bar may not be more than 18" behind the center post on 4 door cars and 10" behind the door seam on 2 door cars - no exceptions.
- Dash bar and seat bars may not exceed 5" diameter. Seat bar must be no further than 6" behind the seat. All bars must be straight pieces no contoured pieces.
- Sedans only, are allowed a gas tank protector, 24” X 6” inches, centered in the back seat area. There must be a 1” space between the back bar and all sheet metal, may not be attached to anything other than back seat bar. All interior sheet metal must remain in stock position. Do not pound!
- You may add a diagonal bar behind the drivers seat and directly below the seat bar running from the seat bar to the floor sheet metal.
- You may add 4 VERTICAL down bars, welded to your door bar and to the floor sheet metal. These bars may not attach to or conceal a body mount.
- No kickers, angled or otherwise. NO cage components may be welded to the frame.
- All horizontal cage components must be at least 8" off the floor of the car, including gas tank protector, measured at the body bolt elevation.
- All cage components must be in the interior of the car, not inside the door structure with the exception of the driver’s side. This door bar MAY be inside the door structure to allow more room for driver’s safety.
HALO OR ROLLOVER BARS:
- You may add a halo bar to the cage components listed above. It may nor exceed 5" in diameter.
- On a 4-door post car, this bar must attach to the seat bar, no exceptions.
- On a 2-door or 4-door non-post car, this bar may be attached to the floor sheet metal.
- Halo bars must be in a direct vertical line with the seat bar.
- Halo bars may NOT be angled toward the rear of the car. They must be vertical.
-You may bolt the halo bar to the roof sheet metal in 2 places.
SKID PLATES:
- Skid plates are allowed. They must be separate plated for the engine and the transmission.
- NO full-length skid plates.
- NO bolting or welding the skid plated to the frame.
TRUNK LIDS:
- Trunk lids must remain 50% in the stock location. The trunk lid must remain on hinges.
- You may fasten your trunk lid in ALL OF THE FOLLOWING 3 ways:
- You may weld 5 on and 5 off 2" x 1/8" strap max.
- AND -You may weld 4 pcs. of 5/8" all thread vertically to the rear frame rails and run them thru the trunk lid. No double nutting. You may use a 5" washer on the trunk lid bolts, plates may not be welded and must be free-floating.
- AND -You may place up to 8 - 3/8" bolts in the drip rail area of the trunk lid.
- There must be 12" minimum hole in the trunk lid for inspection purposes.
- Trunk lid seams must be clearly visible and accessible, do not pound over.
- Relocation of the speaker deck is not allowed it must remain in the stock location, no relocation of any sheet metal or components. Your trunk lid may be V’ed in the center but must be at least 12 inches off trunk body mount location; speaker deck can be 10 inches.
- No fully wedged cars, rear quarters and tail light valance must remain vertical.
HOODS:
- Hoods may be bolted, wired or chained shut ONLY.
- You may use 6 bolts top hold the hood, front two may be 1" max, other 5/8” or less.
- The 2 front bolts may go thru the frame, NOT welded to the frame. The other 4 must be sheet metal to sheet metal.
- If you use chain or wire, you may weld up to 5" washers to the hood. If bolting, the 5" washers must be free floating.
-You may install up to 12 - 3/8" bolts or self tapping screws per hood cutout. Maximum of 3 cut outs. Maximum washer size is 1" diameter. Cutouts may be for header clearance, air breather clearance or radiator fill opening only. These bolts may NOT be installed in any area other than the immediate perimeter of the cut out.
- NO welding of cut outs is allowed.
- You must have a minimum 10" hole in the hood for fire protection.
- Hoods must be open at inspection time. Hood springs must be removed.
DOORS:
- Doors may be welded 5” on, 5” off, outside only, 2" x 1/8" strap maximum.
-You may smash the inner and outer skin together and weld them solid, NO added metal. This includes wagon tailgates
- If you do not weld your doors you must chain or #9 wire them closed in at least 2 spots. You may NOT bolt your doors shut.
- Drivers door may have window netting for driver’s safety. NO other windows may have netting.
- You may weld a plate Maximum 6" x 1/4" across the front doors for protection, not to exceed 6" beyond the front door seams. NO GRADER BLADES. These plates must be in the center of the door, run horizontally.
- Wagon tail gates may be welded, 5 on 5 off, not solid, **OR** you may bolt the tailgate as in previous years. 4 bolts, 4 nuts, 3/4” max **OR** you may weld 5” pieces of angle to the tailgate and quarters and use 3/4 “ max bolts.- pick 1 not all 3.
WINDOWS:
- You must have a piece of rebar/all thread/chain(3/8 max),#9 wire or 2”X1/4” straps running from the roof to the cowl in the windshield area for drivers protection, up to 2 pieces max. This may not be designed as reinforcement to the car and must be space at least 18 inches apart on the bottom, and no cross connections. No other added metal or mount plates, either weld directly or bolt to sheet metal only. No component may be mounted, welded or bolted within 6 inches of the DP.
- You may use 2 loops, 4 strands of #9 wire total in each window opening. This wire may go to or around the frame.
- Station Wagons may not use wire in any window opening beyond the rear passenger door window opening.
- The wire must remain in the field of that window. They may not crisscross the interior of the car.
OTHER:
- Body creasing, enhancing of existing body lines and addition of body lines is allowed to the sides of the car only. Do not fold the metal over to create a doubled effect; any spot with 4 layers of sheet metal will be torched out completely. Trunk lid seams must be clearly visible and accessible.
- No doubling of body panels allowed, no added metal allowed
- Quarter panels must remain vertical. Tail light valances must remain vertical.
- NO SEAM WELDING other than the exterior driver’s doors.
- Core support seam welding is NOT allowed.
- Washers for #9 Wire may be welded to the roof sheet metal. They may be a maximum of 1 ½" diameter. No washers may be welded for future wire installation.
- Holes may be cut in the floor & firewall to accommodate the shifter, fuel lines, and transmission lines.
- You may cut a hole in the firewall to accommodate the engine, within reason.
- You may have up to 5 - 3/8" bolts in each wheel opening. They may not be higher than 5" above the stock lip location of the wheel opening.
ENGINES:
- Any engine may be used in any car, but it must be mounted within 5" of the original motor.
- You may chain the motor, but you must use an existing bolt. Chains may not be higher than the top of the stock engine mount cup. Chains may not be attached to the cylinder heads, header flanges of engine plates. 1 Chain per side, 3/8 max
- You may weld in additional supports to the engine cradle area, but they may not be attached to the frame rails at any point. Only allowed for holding engine in place.
- No engine oil coolers are allowed.
- You must have an air cleaner over the carburetor at all times.
- No starting fluid is allowed.
- Mopars are allowed to secure K member in the following ways:
Remove pucks and bolt tight to frame, stock size bolts only.
Leave pucks in between and weld 4 - 3 inch welds, total (not per side) of 12 inches only.
DISTRIBUTOR PROTECTORS/CRADLES:
- If you run a DP do not mount your dash bar closer than 5 inches to the rear most point of the firewall/cowl, YOU WILL NOT RUN.
-Distributor protectors allowed, must be attached to engine or transmission only, back side must be no wider than 12 inches, must not contact cage before, during or after the event. It may not be welded, bolted or connected to body, hood or frame. Forward supports must be inside normally positioned headers and not extend past the water pump. Call ahead!
- Aftermarket Distributor protectors, cradles and pulley protectors are allowed. These must be separate items and may not all be connected for a complete engine protector system. If you use a front plate it may not be gusseted to header flanges or other components in any manner. No “extreme” engine systems.
-You may beat flat the engine side of the firewall only, do not weld or bolt firewall. Do not re-enforce the firewall/cowl. Do not beat, paint, bolt, weld on, weld to or modify the driver’s side of the firewall/cowl in any way.
TRANSMISSIONS:
- Transmissions must be of passenger car origin, transmission coolers may be used, but they must be secured in such a way to prevent injury.
- Metal or braided lines must be used. No fuel or low-pressure lines may be used.
- Coolers must be secured in a container in the passenger compartment of the car.
REAR ENDS:
You may run 8 lug or floater rear ends. No part of rear end may strengthen the car’s frame or body in any way.
- You may use any type of rear end (Ford / Mopar / GM / Hybrid).
- You may tilt the rear end by lengthening or shortening the trailing arms. Trailing arms must be of passenger car origin and must operate. Trailing arms may be reinforced but must be OEM origin.
- Rear end braces are allowed, but they may serve no purpose other than to strengthen the rear end housing. They may not extend from the rear end further than 6” and may not be higher than the top of the axle tube.
BODY BOLTS:
- All body bolts may be replaced with up to 5/8" bolts, maximum 8" length.
- Core support bolts may be 1" diameter. Core support bolts may go thru the hood and count as 2 of your 6 hood bolts.
- You may use pipe up to 1 ½" OD to run the core support all thread thru. These pipes may be welded to the core support using 3/16" strapping, 2 -4" pcs. max per pipe.
- Washers must be free floating inside the car and inside the frame on the bottom side.
- Do NOT weld the body washers to the floor. Maximum washer size is 5" x 3/16".
- Space must be maintained between the body and the frame; Minimum 3/4".
- Do not bolt the body directly to the frame.
- You may add 2 body mounts in the position of your choice. They must be painted for easy viewing.
- If your station wagon came with the body bolts in the humps, these are your 2 additional mounts. You will NOT be allowed to add more mounts.
- If you decide to bolt your coil springs in place thru the frame and the rear package tray, these will count as your added mounts.
- Wagons are permitted to run 2 of the rear 4 mounts thru the rear pillars. NOT THE ROOF. They must be in the pillar at the tailgate area.
- Chrysler products may run 1" all thread behind the radiator support, but must drill a hole in the frame to bolt the all thread. Do not weld these to the frame.
RADIATORS, RADIATOR SUPPORTS:
- Radiator must be in the stock position in front of the motor.
- Radiator supports must remain in the stock location.
- OEM style radiators only, no home made tube construction radiators.
- You may not add cooling capacity. No supplemental cooling devices allowed.
FUEL DELIVERY SYSTEMS:
- No plastic gas tanks allowed. Marine tank or metal fuel tank only.
- 10+ gallon tank recommended. No coffins, be reasonable!
- Original gas tanks must be removed from the car.
- You must have the gas tank securely mounted behind the driver’s seat and it must be covered.
- Fuel lines must run inside the car, not under the car along the frame.
- Fuel lines must be secured to the floor and kept from pinch points
- Automotive pump gas only, NO ALCOHOL.
- Electric fuel pumps are allowed. They must be covered and have an on/off switch near the steering wheel and clearly marked in large letters.
- All lines must be double clamped.
TIRES & BRAKES:
- No tires taller than 30". 4 wheels max per car. No duals.
- No split rims, studded tires or 100% solid wheels, you may use aftermarket center with various bolt patterns, 8 inch max, 14 inch for mobile home tires. Welds must be approved by judges on rear tires.
- Valve stem protectors allowed, wheel weights must be removed.
- Doubled or foam filled tires OK - we don’t like flats!
- All cars must be able to demonstrate the ability to stop at any time. If your brakes do not work, you will not compete.
- You may not change tires after inspection, ride height will be measured with your competition tires only.
BATTERIES:
- A maximum of 2 - 12 volt batteries may be used.
- They must be secured inside the car in front of the passenger seat and covered.
- Rusted out holes in your floor sheet metal may be patched where components will be mounted or for drivers safety, sheet metal only. No other sheet metal patching is allowed unless it is a safety issue. You may not patch clean and solid floors.
- When patching you may NOT weld, you may bolt, self tap or pop rivet all patches. No components to include, gas pedal, battery boxes, etc may be welded, you must bolt only. No part or patch may be attached to any vertical sheet metal(firewall), all must be patched or mounted in the horizontal floorboards only. No over sized mount plates or boxes. Do not mount anything within 6 inches of any body bolt.
FRAMES:
- The only frame welding allowed is from the front of the a-arms forward, top only, no more than a ½" wide bead.
- Buick, Olds and Pontiacs may fill the large hole in the frame behind the radiator support. This must be a butt fit, 1 pass weld only. NO overlap allowed.
- The bumper strap to frame welding is covered in the bumper section.
- NO other frame welding is allowed. No plating, stuffing, heat treating or foam filling of frames is allowed. Do NOT paint or undercoat your frame or you will not even be inspected and loaded.
- You may weld your motor mounts to the engine cradle, not to the frame rails.
- Rear frame rails may not be shortened. No dowel pinning of the frame is allowed.
- You may notch the frame for minimal pre-bending, but do NOT weld the cut.
- You may run a chain or cable or #9 wire from rear rail to rear rail behind the rear humps. 3/8" chain maximum.
- You may chain or wire your axle to the frame hump. You may NOT use strapping of any kind for this. Wire or chain only. 3/8" chain maximum. Chain must go around frame on full frame cars, do not bolt through hump creating a frame pin, except uni-body cars may use 1 bolt per side thru the frame for this.
- You may not weld the chain links to create a bar effect.
- There is no frame shaping allowed at all. Do not sharpen the corners of the frame or square them in any way. The frame humps above the rear tires may be beat in for a distance of 8” in each direction from the center of the hump. That is the ONLY frame shaping that is allowed.
BUMPERS, BUMPER BRACKETS:
-You must start with a stock/replacement bumper but you are allowed to re-enforce inside or the backside between the shock mounts. Do not re-enforce the front or the ends outside the shock mounting area. Bumper re-enforcement may not be done in anyway to stop frame bending. Bumper must appear stock from the stands, no spike or protruding items.
- Bumpers are interchangeable for all cars. Includes compact and mid-sized cars.
- You may weld the bumper seams, the shocks and weld the brackets to the frame. You may not weld further than 4 inches behind the radiator support AT ALL when mounting your front bumper brackets on any car. No bracket or welding may be done further than 4 inches behind the radiator support other than the top frame seam. – NO EXCEPTIONS
- If you choose not to use brackets, you may weld your bumper directly to the frame.
- You may weld the outer chrome skin to the bumper inner frame.
- You may not weld the bumper to the body at any time.
- Bumpers may be cut to keep them out of the tires.
- Bumpers may be flipped (upside down).
- Compression bumper shocks may be drained, slid back into the shock and welded fully.
- All bumper brackets and shock components must be OEM automotive materials.
- REAR bumper brackets may not be welded more than 4” onto the frame rail
- You may run 4 loops of #9 wire from the radiator support to the bumper in 2 locations outside of the radiator.
- You may weld a 2" x 6" x 1/4" strap from the bumper to the frame to help keep the bumper on the car. This must remain in one piece. It cannot be angled to the corner of the bumper to form a kicker. 6" is the maximum length.
- You may run 2 pieces of all thread 5/8" x no more than 14" thru the body pan to help hold the bumper on. 5" washer maximum for this bolt.
- Bumper height must be 16" to 22" measured to the bottom of the frame at the back and front body mount location.
THE FOLLOWING SECTION IS FOR THE 80’S CLASS ONLY
- You may replace the aluminum engine cradles with a stock older Ford cradle. It must be in the stock location with only 12 inches weld max, all other components must be bolted in with stock size bolts. No added metal, braces or gussets.
- You may pitch, tilt or tip 80’s and newer style cars in 3 following ways only
1. You may cold pitch, no added metal.
2. You may cut only the outside flap and pull the front end down moving the flap ½ inch and re-weld. Only re-weld the one flap, do not re-weld any other crushbox seams, no added metal.
3. You may pitch at the transmission cross member, since you are already allowed to weld a 5 inch piece of angle there to mount your cross member.
- Watts-link conversion for Fords. You may convert a Watts-Link to a standard 4 link system in the following way: Use the upper and lower trailing arm brackets off an older Ford. After market brackets are allowed, but no thicker than ¼ inch and may be attached with max of 3 – 1/2“ bolts each side. No shortening of trailer arms, no positioning of brackets to strengthen the front down legs of the rear hump, must be mount in the stock location.
- You may cut the excess frame off the front rails but you may not move the front body mount. All body mounts must remain in stock location.
THE PRECEEDING SECTION WAS FOR THE 80’S CLASS ONLY
SUSPENSION, SPRINGS:
- No coil to leaf conversions.
- Leaf springs must be in the factory position.
- You may change coil springs.
- Suspension must be original factory suspension for that car.
- You may not remove the shocks and put pipe or all thread in their place.
- You may weld, bolt or chain down your A arms. You are allowed either two 1” straps, **OR** one chain **OR** one bolt per side. All chains, bolts or welds must be in the middle of the A-arm. Do not weld entire A arm down, 1” max, nothing may contact the frame rail, all attachments must be made to spring bucket only. If you are in excess of this rule, you will not run!
- If you chain your humps, you must leave enough slack for the suspension to work.
- You may reinforce your tie rods, but you must use the OEM tie rod ends.
- Pipe Tie Rods are allowed but you must use the stock ends, no aftermarket hiems.
- Steering wheel to Steering gearbox may be modified.
- After market steering columns allowed.
- Shock absorbers must be factory replacement for that year, make and model of car.
- No truck shocks, no exotic shocks, no mystery shocks, no over sized shocks.
- All shocks must have a minimum 3/4" hole in the dust cover for inspection purposes.
- Cars that place in the money will have the shock cylinder cut open and if a non-stock shock is discovered, that car will be disqualified and all money won will be forfeited.
- Air shock lines must be cut.
LEAF SPRINGS:
- 9 leaf maximum, 5/16 " max thickness, 2 ½" wide maximum.
- 58" minimum, 60" maximum spring length.
- Stagger - 3" long side (rear of axle), 2&quoot; short side (front of axle).
- 5 clamps per spring, 2 in front of the axle, 3 behind the axle.
- Clamp material 1/4" thick, 2" wide, 2 – 3/8" bolts per clamp.
- U-bolts - 7/16" maximum, stock mounting plattes must be used. The older Fords are allowed ½” u-bolts as they were stock for those years.
- No homemade mounting plates or oversized u-bolts will be allowed.
- No welding on the spring pack
- No flat sprung cars - leaf pack must have a minimum of 2" of arch.
- No duct taping of springs prior to inspection.
MM INSPECTION PROCEDURES:
- Official’s decisions are final.
- You will be given one (1) opportunity to correct items on your car.
- Each car gets a maximum of 2 times thru inspection.
- Cars will be impounded after inspection and staged in a secure location.
- You must be completely ready to bolt the hood down during inspection and then put the car in the staging area.
- No further work will be allowed and cars will not be allowed to return to their trailers.
- Do not come to the inspection line if you are not done preparing your car.
- Any added or welded metal plate/rod or material not specifically covered in the rules, will be removed completely as well as the surrounding metal. Don’t do it or your car will be weakened! Call ahead! Call David Gard 219-746-8643
MM2011 PRE-FEATURE/PRE-CONSOLATION CAR PREPARATION:
- You may add 4 strands of wire in 4 locations of your choice prior to the consi, unlimited wire for feature.
- Leaf spring cars may NOT replace leaf springs prior to either the consi or the feature.
- You may wire them or tape leaf springs, but may not replace them.
- No replacing of sheet metal components prior to the consi or the feature.
- After the heats, consi cars will be re inspected. Feature cars will be impounded.
- You may sedagon your vehicle only after you have qualified for the feature, wire only, visibility for inspection must be maintained.
- Upon impound, digital photographs will be taken of each feature car.
Feature car repairs will begin at sunrise. Feature cars must be re inspected by 1pm and then impounded again. No further repairs will be allowed after this point.
LEAF CLASS:
-Leaf class will use the above rules AND:
- 80's and newer cars only
- If you do not convert to leafs, you aree allowed a 1/4 inch by 22 inch hump plate, contoured to the hump, centered and welded with one pass of 1/4 weld. This plate must be welded to the outside only, match the factory hump and not span the center of the hump. Do not weld any seams on the rear of the car.
-Any rear end - 8 lugs ok
-5/16" thick, 2.5" wide leaf siize
-2" stagger front and back. 9 leaf mmaximum
-5 clamps per side 2x4x1/4" max. 5/1116" bolts max.
-48" minimum spring length, eyelet tto eyelet.
- NO DOUBLED MAINS, no leafs above the maains
- If your leafs aare different, contact Daave with specs.
-rear mount - 6X66X1/4" shackle, weldded to or bolted thru the frame
-Front eyelet mount
1. In trailing arm bracket, w/3x3x1/4" gusset
2. In the frame with a bolt thru - no added metal
3. Box welded to the frame 4X6X1/4" maximum
-Springs MUST have a minimum 2" archh.
-Springs may be mounted above or below thhe axle
-No allthread sttruts, must have shock abssorbers.
-NO ADDED METAL OTHER THAN WHAT IS SPECIFFFIED ABOVE. NO EXCEPTIONS.
Leaf class cars are allowed to compete at all of our Fair shows in the open class.
TRUCKS:
-We will honor the rules in the area that you run.
The following exceptions apply….
-NO fully plated frames, regardless of yoour rules
-NO doubled sheet metal
-NO cages in the fenders, engine compartmment or rear bedsides.
-No fully operable 4 wheel drive setups -NNo kickers past the centerline of eitherr axle.
We realize that this might provide a fairly diverse field, but we do not generate enough truck interest to justify asking you to build your truck to our specific rules.
Bone Stock Rules
A. 1. Any year car… No Imperials, no Suicide Lincolns, no hearses
B. Body
1. Remove all glass mirrors and plastic. Remove all decking in wagons
Vehicles must be swept clean of all debris
2. No sedagons, no crease enhancement, no sheet metal shaping, forming or
Folding.. Body to remain completely stock.
3. Deck and Hood must be 100% in stock location and open for inspection.
4. Anything can be removed, NOTHING can be added
5. NO WELDING… NO WELDING
6.. Fasten door, hoods, tail gates in 4 places, 4 strands of #9 wire per seam
7. Body mounts and spacers to remain stock and in place. If they are broken, #9 wire may be substituted. No body bolt changing allowed.
C. Frames
1. NO welding on frames allowed..
2. No suspension modifications allowed. Must remain strictly stock
D. Drive Train
1. No performance parts or engines allowed, stock only. Engines subject to a $500 claimer, so if you wouldn’t sell your engine before the derby for $500, don’t bring it. The only acceptable upgrades are timing chain, headers, basic tune up, etc... not complete rebuilds.
2. Only the lower stock engine mounts may be welded or chained.
3. Stock rear ends only – OEM for that car. Rear end gears may be welded
4. Floor shifters allowed, headers allowed
5. NO engine cradles, slipshafts, protectors of any kind, no aftermarket parts of this nature at all.
6. You may swap engines, ie.. Chevy in a Ford, but must be a stock engine.
E. Driver Compartment
1. 2 bar cage only, dash area, drivers door OR seat bar. No other cage components allowed, no down pipes.
2. Drivers door must be padded.
3. Gas tank and battery must be moved and secured. Tank behind the seat, Battery on the passenger front floor.
4. No oil or trans coolers allowed. O.E. radiator cooling only.
F. Bumpers
1. You may weld on a steel bumper, no welding further than 4 inches from the back of bumper, single pass only.
2. Shocks may be collapsed and welded, single pass only
3. Or you may chain, one piece of chain per side BOLTED from the mount to mount to hold on the bumper.
G. NO tire restriction, Brakes MUST work.
Only welding allowed is bumper, engine mount, cage and rearend! This build should only take 2 days, if you spend more than that you are overbuilt for this class and will not run!
